Marabou

Tying Instructions: Beldar Rubberleg Bugger



	1. Slip the Medium Gold Conehead onto the hook and bring up to the eye. Secure the hook to vise.
	2. Wrap 10-15 wraps of 0.025" lead-free wire around the shank and push the wraps up into the conehead.
	3. Attach the thread behind the wire wraps and secure the wraps.
	4. Wrap the thread back to the bend of the hook for a thread fouindation. The bend of the hook is where the tail material will be tied in.
	5. The Beldar has a heavy tail which may mean two clumps of marabou plume to get the amount needed. The tail should measure for the eye to the bend of the hook in length. The barbs are from the top of the plume. They have little fluff and are fairly even. My second clump of barbs will be from the side of the plume so that I can bring more fluff to the tail.
	6. A second clump is tied into the bend of the hook. Note that these barbs have more fluff than the first clump and are a little uneven. These barbs were cut from the side of the plume.
	7. Secure the butt ends fo the marabou to the shank with thread wraps, trimming off the tag ends just behind the wire wraps. Note that the bulk of the marabou butt ends anchored onto the shank gives the shank about the same diameter of as the wire wraps producing an even body shank from the tail to the conehead..
	8. Attach a couple strands of Krystalflash to each side of the shank with the strands extending the full length of the tail.
	9. Next, attach the copper wire ribbing butting the end into the conehead and securing with thread wraps along the side of the shank. Secure up to the base of the tail.
	10. Attach a piece of Crystal chenille to the base of the tail. Clean some of the crystal material away from the thread core of the chenille so that the thread core of the chenille is what you secure with thread wraps.
	11. Attach a first set of rubberlegs to the 1/3 position of the hook shank. I prefer to keep the pair unseparated until after the body material is wrapped. I lay one wrap of thread just behind the bend of the material. With one wrap, you can adjust each side of the leg to a position below the shank and then secure that position with additional thread wraps.
	12. A second set of rubberlegs are placed at the 2/3 position of the shank behind the conehead. Leave an adequate amount of space behind the conehead for anchoring the hackles and tieng off the body material. Note, one wrap of thread around the bend of the rubberlegs, then adjust position and secure with additional wraps.
	13. The second set of rubberlegs are secure and the thread is wrapped up to the conehead.
	14. Wrap the Crystal Chenille forward to just behind the first set of legs. Do not cross over the legs with the chenille with the next wrap. Go in front of the rubberlegs from below the shank and this will keep the position of the rubberlegs true.
	15. Continue to wrap the Crystal Chenille forward coming to the second set of legs.
	16. Wrap the Crystal Chenille below the second set of legs and bring the material up in front of the set. Continue to wrap to the conehead and secure with thread wraps. Trim off the tag ends of the chenille.
	17. Prepare a pair of Guinea Hen Feathers. They need to be long enough to wrap to the base of the tail. Remove the right side of the fibers from the quill. This will give you a palmer hackle where the fibers will be placed cleanly without getting crushed. Also, remove the fibers from the base of the hackle in order to secure the hackle to the shank with thread wraps.
	18. Secure the hackle pair just behind the conehead.
	19. Using a rubber gripped Rotating Hackle Plier, wrap the hackles together around the shank as many times as the hackle length will allow to finish near the tail. Take care not to cross the rubberlegs.
	20. Secure the Hackle tips to the shank with the copper ribbing. Wrap the ribbing in front of the hackle plier to catch the tips and continue to wrap the copper ribbing forward with 6-7 wraps up to the conehead. Again, take care not to cross the rubberlegs.
	21. Secure the copper ribbing behind the conehead with thread wraps and apply a whip finish.
	22. Separate the rubberlegs and brush the hackles back toward the tail.
	23. The finished Beldar Rubberleg Bugger, Olive . If you want more hackle fibers around the conehead, add another palmered hackle at the base of the conehead and whip finish. It will be a nice filled collar.