1. Mash down the barb with the vise and slip on a bead to fit. I'm using a 3/32" Gold Cyclop bead on a Daiichi 1710 size 12 hook. |
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2. Attach the thread behind the bead and lay a thread foundation to the bend of the hook. |
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3. Select a Mallard Flank feather that is flat on the top. Woodduck has been difficult to obtain so many are using Mallard or Teal Flank. I am using Mallard Flank dyed Woodduck. Clip the tip with about 15-20 fibers. Measure the tip for a length to be about 3/4 as the hook shank. |
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4. Attach the fibers at the bend of the hook and securing the tag end of the fibers along the top of the hook shank.. |
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5. Attach a section of small copper wire to the bottom of the hook shank for ribbing. Secure the wire to the bend of the hook. | ||
6. Apply the dubbing blend to the thread. I am using 50% Natural Aussie Possum, 40% Hare's Mask, and 10% Gray Olive Simi Seal. Twist around the thread and secure the first fibers to the shank with a turn. With the first fibers anchored to the hook shank, twist some more on the dubbing to create a rope. |
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7. Apply the dubbed rope along the hook shank creating a tapered abdomen to just past the midpoint of the shank. | ||
8. Then wrap the wire ribbing to the end of the abdomen and secure with thread wraps. Trim off the tag end of the wire. |
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9. Select a Mallard feather dyed Woodduck with good barring and a flat tip. |
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10. Position the feather at the top of the shank with the ends just protruding the tail tie in position. Using your thumb and index finger, distribute the fibers around the shank and secure with thread wraps. Clip off the tag end of the fibers. |
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11. If you require additional fibers, apply another section of fibers to the bottom of the shank. Adjust the length to just beyond the tail tie in position and secure with thread wraps. Clip off the tag end of the fibers. |
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12. Secure with the tag ends of the fibers with thread wraps up to the bead, providing a smooth section for the thorax. | ||
13. The thorax should be larger in diameter than the abdomen. You also want it to be quite buggy in appearance. After all, it's a bird's nest, right? Create a dubbing loop with the thread. Remember to add a couple of thread turns around the loop under the hook shank to close the loop. Prepare the Aussie Possum dubbing by stroking the material in one direction and apply the dubbing to the center of the loop. Using a dubbing loop tool, close the loop and start to twist. |
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14. I'm actually using a Matarelli Cal Bird Dubbing tool. Twist the loop to form a thin rope with the fibers extending out from the rope core. | ||
15. Orienting the fibers of the dubbing loop back towards the tail, wrap the loop forward to the bead and secure the loop with thread wraps behind the bead. Trim off the tag end of the loop. Apply some additonal dubbing just behind the bead to fully secure the bead against the hook eye. | ||
16. Whip Finish. Yes, I am using a Matarelli Whip finisher. I'm told that Cal Bird, being his neighbor, was always fussing with the tools to Frank Matarelli's chagrin. |
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17. The Finished Bird's Nest. The original did not have a bead but a thread head. The additional weight helps in the getting the fly where it needs to be. Try a tungsten bead or go ballistic with the Depth Charge that Greg Vinci designed. |
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