1. Scud hooks have a tight bend and slotted beads work best fitting around the bend. I am using a 7/64 Slotted Bead on a size 12 Daiichi 1120 scud hook. Utilizing a Beadmaster tool and a Bead pad, I can orient the small bead so that the slotted side is upright and I can place the hole of the bead directly on the point of the hook. |
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2. Attach the thread and secure the bead against the eye of the hook with thread wraps. Slotted beads do not have a large cavity to fill. |
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3. Wrap a thread foundation to the bend of the hook and wrap back up to the bead. |
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4. Attach a wire ribbing to the top of the hook shank behind the bead and secure with thread wraps down to the where the thread foundation ended. |
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5. Wrap the thread back up to the bead and secure the strand of Holographic tinsel just behind the bead. |
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6. Secure the tinsel to the top of the hook shank with thread wraps extending to the end of the thread foundation. Wrap the thread back up to the bead. |
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7. Wrap the tinsel up to the bead building a tapered body. Secure the tag end of the tinsel with a couple of thread wraps behind the bead. |
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8. Clip off the tag end of the tinsel and secure with a couple more thread wraps. Next, wrap the ribbing forward with some evenly-spaced spirol wraps securing tag end behind the bead with thread wraps. Break off the tag end of the wire ribbing behind the bead.. |
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9. Clip a section of fibers from a Mallard Flank, evening the tips. Place the section of fibers around the side of the hook with the tips just extending past the bend. A couple of loose wraps will orient the fibers around the hook shank and a couple of tight wraps will splay the fibers. |
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10. Clip off the tag end of the Mallard fibers as close the the bead as possible. |
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11. Wrap a few turns of the thread to secure the fibers and place another section of Mallard Flank on the other side of the hook. Again the tips should just be beyond the bend. Use two loose wraps of orient the fibers and two tight wraps to splay them. |
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12. Trim off the tag end of the second Mallard section. |
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13. Secure the hackle fibers with a couple of the thread wraps and apply a small amount of ice dubbing to the thread. Bring the thread over the top of the fly and push the dubbing to the base of the bead. |
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14. A couple of thread wraps will lock these dubbing fibers in place. |
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15. Use a dubbing brush to tease the fibers along the body of the fly. |
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16. The fibers will mix with the soft hackle flowing behind the bead to give the appearance of a shuck and legs. |
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17. Attach 2-3 Ostrich herls by the base of the quills just behind the bead. |
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18. Twist the herls to form a chenille and wrap twice for a collar. Secure with a couple of thread wraps. |
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19. Clip off the tag end of the Ostrich herl and whip finish place the thread wraps between the bead and the herl. |
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20. The finished G6 Caddis Pupa. |
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