1. Apply lead-free wire wraps from the end of the shank just above the hook point to the 80% mark behind the eye. Attach the thread at the bend of the hook and secure the end of the lead-free wire. |
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3. Wrap the lead-free wire back towards the rear ro form a second layer to the midpoint of the shank. This will be the thorax region. |
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4. Wrap the lead-free wire with thread to firmly secure and apply head cement to those wraps. Bring the thread back to the bend of the hook. |
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5. Secure two Goose biots on each side of the shank at the bend of the hook. These will naturally split to a 45 degree angle. |
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6. Attach the yarn and the ribbing at the tail tie-in position and secure the tag ends along the abdomen region up to the thorax. |
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7. Wrap the yarn forward with tight smooth wraps covering all of the lead-free wire up to the thorax. |
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8. Counter-wrap the ribbing with evenly spaced wraps up to the thorax and secure with thread wraps. Clip off the tag end of the wire ribbing. |
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9. Prepare two hackles by stripping one side of the fibers. This would be the right-hand side of the hackle with the shiny side facing the eye of the hook. The two hackles are attached to the base of the lead-free wire wrapped thorax side by side. Below the hackles, attach two Ostrich Quills and secure with some thread wraps. Bring the thread to the front of the thorax. |
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10. Wrap the yarn forward over the thorax region. Since there is an abrupt edge at the front of the thorax, you may need to use thread wraps to control the yarn from slipping. Apply a couple wraps in front of the thorax and secure with thread wraps. Trim of the yarn tag end. |
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11. Wrap the two hackles forward with two complete wraps. Secure hackles with thread wraps behind the eye and trim off the tag ends. |
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12. Wrap the two Ostrich quills along the base of the hackles. Wrap up to behind the eye and secure with thread wraps. Trim off the tag. |
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13. Create a large head with thread wraps. Whip Finish and apply head cement. |
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