1. Attach the thread about an eyelength behind the eye and attach a piece of Pearl Mylar tinsel at an angle to the shank. |
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2. Wrap the tinsel with overlapping wraps to the bend of the hook, just above the poin,t and back again to just behind the eye. Secure with 2 thread wraps behind the last wrap. |
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3. Bring the tinsel around the shank once and apply two more wraps over the material as it is pulled towards the bend of the hook. This technique really locks in the material. |
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4. Prepare two Mallard Flank feathers. Select a pair that is broad and measure the length so that it is about 2 times the hook length. Flatten the bare quill with a smooth surface hemostat or pliers to aid in positioning. Secure the first feather by the quill to the shank about 2 eyelengths behind the eye. Keep the quill in line with the shank. |
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5. Now turn over the fly, if you have a rotary vise, and apply the second feather in the same manner as the first one. | ||
6. Bend the tag end of the quills back and apply additional thread wraps to lock these in. | ||
7. Trim off the tag ends of the quills and place two segments of Pearl Mylar tinsel to each side of the body as a cheek. Keep the material in line with the shank. | ||
8. Prepare a thin Grizzly hackle tip so that the length is about 1 1/2 the hook length. Remove the fibers from the base of the hackle and secure the hackle just in front of the wing at the top of the shank. |
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9. Prepare two hackles, Badger is this example, sized to the hook. Remove the fibers from the base of the hackles and secure to the top of the shank with the dull sides facing forward. This will give the hackle more tension and action upon use. |
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10. Wrap each hackle forward separately and secure with thread wraps just behind the eye. |
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11. Build a small head and whip finish. |
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