1. Mash the barb with the vise and slip on a Gold tungsten bead. I'm using a 3/32 with a size #12 hook. |
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2. Wrap a section of leadfree wire behind the bead. Hackle pliers make this an easy step. |
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3. Attach your thread behind the lead wraps and secure the lead wraps tight against the bead. Wrap the thread back to the bend of the hook where the tails will be secured. | ||
4. Select a pair of Brown Goose Biots and have the tips even with the biiots curving outwards. Measure the tail so that it is about 1 hook shank in length. |
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5. Just switch hands to mark the tie-in position of the biots and place the biots on each side of the hook shank at the tail tie-in position. |
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6. Secure the biots with thread wraps up to the leadfree wire wraps. |
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7. Trim off the tag ends of the biots and wrap the thread at the base of the leadfree wire wraps for an even underbody. |
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8. Attach a section of Oval Tinsel to the top of the hook shank behind the leadfree wire wraps and secure the tinsel to the tail tie-in position. |
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9) Select three peacock herls and even the tips. Clip off the tips so that the strong portion of the herl is attached to the top of the hook. Secure the herl to the tail tie-in position. |
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10. Wrap the three herls around the thread as a chenille. |
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11. Wrap the herl chenille forward to just behind the bead. Leave some space for tying the legs and wings. Trim off the tag ends. |
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12. Spirol wrap the ribbing in a counter wrap to just behind the bead and secure with thread wraps. Trim off the tag ends. |
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13. Seloect a henback or partridge feather. Remove the basal fluff to expose a bare quill. Sweep the feather fibers back leaving a feather tip that will be trimmed off. |
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14. Lay the feather above the bead and apply one thread wrap behind the bead to help secure it in position. Grab the bare quill and pull the feather through the thread loop. |
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15. Adjust the length of the fibers until they are just short of the hook point. Now, secure with some tight thread wraps behind the bead and trim the tag end of the feather. |
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16. Turn the fly back up on the vise and attach a first biot wing at a 30 degree angle behind the bead with the point of the biot turning down. |
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17. Attach a second biot wing at a 30 degree angle on the opposing side. The biots are an "X" at the point where they will be tied in behind the bead. The length of the wings should be from the collar to the base of the tail. The width of the biot wing points should be just a little wider than the body. Secure with thread wraps behind the bead for a thread collar. |
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18. Whip finish behind the bead and trim off the thread. |
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19. Apply some UV fly finish to the collar thread. |
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20. Cure the epoxy with a UV Lamp. |
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21. The finished Beadhead Prince Nymph. |
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