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Hot Wire Prince
Hot Wire Prince (Yellow/Red)
Tying Instructions
1. Mash down the barb with the vise and slide on the Gold Bead to the eye of the hook.
2. Wrap 7-8 turns of leadfree wire behind the bead and slide the wire wraps up into the bead cavity.
3. Attach the thread to the shank behind the leadfree wraps. Apply thread wraps of the wire to secure and wrap back to the bend of the hook.
4. Attach two goose biots, with the convex sides facing each other, to the tail tie-in position. The biot tails should be about one shank length.
5. Position the biots so that they are split and roughly horizontal to the shank. Wrap the tag end of the biots up to the end of the leadfree wraps.
6. Trim the tag ends of the biots.Wrap the shank to create a tapered foundation over the biots and leadfree wire, then bring the thread back to the tail tie-in position. Attach the two colored copper wires at the tail tie-in position along the side of the shank.
7. Now wrap a smooth foundation covering the wire, leaving the thread just behind the bead.
8. Wrap the the two wires forward to about two eye widths behind the bead. During the wrapping, bring each wrap against the previous one to keep the wraps snug.
9. Secure the wires with thread wraps behind the bead.
10. Attach three pieces of peacock herl by the tip behind the bead. Twist the herl into a chenille and wrap it about 2-4 times over the base of the wire wraps and in front of the wire wraps for a thorax leaving some space behind the bead.
11. Secure with a couple of thread wraps and trim the tag ends.
12. Prepare a hen neck feather. The length of the fibers should reach from the bead to the point of the hook. Flare out the fibers from the quill and remove the bottom fluff exposing a section of bare quill.
13. With your index finger and thumb, message the fibers into a plane. All of the fibers will be pointing back towards the tail.
14. Attach the base of the quill behind the bead and secure with a few thread wraps.
15. Wrap the hackle 3-4 turns and secure with some thread wraps behind the bead.
16. Clip off a pair of White Goose biots. Attach the first one at an angle along the far side of the body. The length should not exceed the body. Secure with a couple of thread wraps.
17. Place the second biot with an equal opposing angle on the near side. I like to have my biots curving downwards since the peacock herl tends to lift these biots. Secure with a couple more thread wraps.
18. Biots are slippery and a little Zap-a-gap on the next thread wraps will anchor these biots down. Trim off the tag ends of the white biots at the bead and secure with three or four thread wraps.
19. Apply a whip finish.
20. The finished Hot Wire Prince.
| Materials
to Order Material, click the link |
|
|---|---|
| Hook | TMC 3761 #12-18 |
| Thread | Uni-Thread Black 8/0 |
| Head | Gold Tungsten Bead |
| Collar | Uni-Thread Black 8/0 |
| Weight | 0.020 Leadfree wire |
| Body | Yellow & Red Soft Wire, Size Medium |
| Tail | Brown Goose Biots |
| Thorax | Strung Peacock Herl |
| Wing | White Goose Biots |
| Hackle | Brown Hen Neck |
Hot Wire Prince
The Hot Wire Prince became a popular prince nymph variation soon after the Copper John was introduced by John Barr. I don’t know who actually originated this fly but the origins seem to be in Colorado where it became a popular choice for getting deep into the freestone rivers and streams.
Two colorations provide segmentation
Wapsi came out with various colorations of copper in 2001, so it was soon after that date that tyers would experiment with a two color wire body. Not only does the two color provide a distinct segmentation but the two colors will blend together to give a unique appearance. Popular colorations are Red/Yellow, Green/Yellow, Pink/Silver, and Brown/Gold. With movement, these colors will blend together so that the Green/Yellow will look a very buggy bright green.
Heavy pattern as an anchor fly
Like the Copper John and the Prince Nymph, the Hot Wire Prince is an attractor nymph but it is very effective in waters with caddis larvae and pupae. It can also represent small stoneflies. The weight of these patterns is a real plus for euro nymphing. Not only do you have the wire body but you can utilize a tungsten beadhead and add a leadwire underbody.
With this much weight, I prefer to use a small digital scale to figure out my fly selection with a multi-fly rig. With so much going on with a lead wire underbody and biot tails, it is important to create a smooth thread base underbody that tapers up to the thorax region. Once this is accomplished, the two wire wrap will have a smooth taper as well keeping the two wire close together. Bead suggestions: 7/64″ for size 12, 3/32″ for size 14-16, and 5/64″ for size 18.
Variations
Hot Wire Prince (Green/Yellow)
| Hook | TMC 5262 #12-18 |
| Thread | Uni-Thread Black 8/0 |
| Head | Gold Tungsten Bead |
| Collar | Uni-Thread Black 8/0 |
| Weight | 0.020 Leadfree wire |
| Body | Green & Yellow Soft Wire, Size Medium |
| Tail | Brown Goose Biots |
| Thorax | Strung Peacock Herl |
| Wing | White Goose Biots |
| Hackle | Brown Hen Neck |
Hot Wire Prince (Green/Red)
| Hook | TMC 5262 #12-18 |
| Thread | Uni-Thread Black 8/0 |
| Head | Gold Tungsten Bead |
| Collar | Uni-Thread Black 8/0 |
| Weight | 0.020 Leadfree wire |
| Body | Green & Red Soft Wire, Size Medium |
| Tail | Brown Goose Biots |
| Thorax | Strung Peacock Herl |
| Wing | White Goose Biots |
| Hackle | Brown Hen Neck |
Hot Wire Prince (Brown /Gold)
| Hook | TMC 5262 #12-18 |
| Thread | Uni-Thread Black 8/0 |
| Head | Gold Tungsten Bead |
| Collar | Uni-Thread Black 8/0 |
| Weight | 0.020 Leadfree wire |
| Body | Brown & Gold Soft Wire, Size Medium |
| Tail | Brown Goose Biots |
| Thorax | Strung Peacock Herl |
| Wing | White Goose Biots |
| Hackle | Brown Hen Neck |