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Cluster Midge
Cluster Midge
Tying Instructions
1.Attach the thread behind the eye and run a thread base to the bend of the hook.
2. Mesure two microfibbetts for a length on the hook shank
3. Attach the two microfibbetts at the bend of the hook and secure the microfibbetts along the top of the hook shank.
4. Wrap the two microfibetts forward evenly without overlap to the midpoint of the shank. Clip off the tag end and wrap back to the tail tie in position.
5. Place on thread wrap between the two microfibetts to splay them and secure with thread wraps up to the midpoint of the shank.
6. Clip off a strand of floating Poly Yarn and divide the strand into thirds. Take the 1/3 strand and secure it in the center at the midpoint of the shank with two thread wraps.
7. Wrap the thread forward over keeping the poly strands on the top of the shank to the 3/4 position and place two thread wraps in front of the strands lifting them upwards.
8. Create a wingpost with thread wraps at the base of the poly strands. You can hold the poly strands of the parachute wing with your fingers to provide tension. Work the thread upwards about an 1/8 inch and downwards finishing in front of the post.
9. Next, wrap the thread back to the 1/3 position of the shank in front of the bend and place two thread wraps behind the poly strands, lifting them upwards.
10. Do the same as the first post, create a wing post by holding the strands for tension and wrapping a basal wingpost about 1/8 inch. Finish with the thread wrap just behind the wingpost.
11.Attach two peacock herl be the tips under the rear wingpost and wrap to the tail tie in position.
12. Select a grizzly hackle sized to the hook. Remove the bottom fibers to leave a bare quill. Attach the bare quill to the side of the hook shank just in front of the rear wingpost. The shiny side of the hackle should face te poly wing and the quill should be bare to the top of the threaded wingpost. Place a few thread wraps along the wingpost to lock the bare quill against it. Bring the thread back in front of the wingpost.
13. Take the two herls and wrap a few turns behind the rear wingpost and in front of it. Lock the herls with a couple of tight thread wraps in front of the wingpost.
14. Wrap a parachute with the hackle with 3-4 wraps going to the base of the wingpost, secure the hackle with a couple of thread wraps in front of the wingpost and on top of the shank.
15. Clip off the tag end of the hackle and prepare it for the front wingpost by removing the basal fibers. Secure the bare hackle quill to the side of the hook shank just in front of the wingpost and secure the quill up the threaded wingpost bringing the thread just in front of the wingpost.
16. Next, wrap the herl forward once more, this time to just in front of the wingpost behind the eye. Secure with a couple of thread wraps.
17. Wrap a second parachute with 3-4 wraps of the hackle and secure the tag end in front of the wingpost with a couple of thread wraps.
18. Trim off the tag end of the hackle and wrap the herl a couple of times in front of the wingpost. Secure the herl and trim off the tags.
19. Use a half hitch tools to lock in the thread without trapping the parachute fibers.
20. You should have enough room to whip finish.
21. Trim the poly yarn wings to the length you want.
22. The finished Cluster Midge.
| Materials
to Order Material, click the link |
|
|---|---|
| Hook | Firehole 718 #16-18 |
| Thread | Uni-thread Black 8/0 |
| Body | Peacock Herl |
| Tail | Microfibettts, Clear |
| Wingpost | Floating Poly Yarn. White |
| Hackle | Grizzly Hackle |
Cluster Midge
Midges can make up almost 50% of the trout’s diet. The individual midge can be quite small so rather than tying a size 26, why not create a cluster of these midges on a size 16-18 hook. The Griffiths Gnat pattern fits this need but many fly tiers preferred to embellish the pattern for better floatability and sighting. Rene Harrop on the Henry’s Fork added a CDC wing to the Griffiths Gnat and ties it on a size 20 and 22 TMC 900bl. This created some extra buoyancy and was easier to see.
Stalcup’s Cluster Midge
Shane Stalcup
Going to a lighter hook and adding floating Poly Yarn with twin parachute wings, the late Shane Stalcup created a wonderful cluster midge pattern that works well in faster water and allows you to quickly spot the fly. Trout will rarely strike at a midge cluster but tend to suck them down. So, when you see this pattern disappear, set the hook. The above pattern is my variation of Stalcup’s Cluster Midge. Shane also incorporated two pairs of clear synthetic wings to add some flash and realism to the pattern. I tend to resort to simplicity and limit the number of materials but the more likely reason is, as I get into my later years, adding synthetic wings to a small hook with a lot of stuff going on is just too difficult. Shane was a fly tying genius.
The late Bob Quigley was a tier that chose the fore and aft concept for the cluster midge. Bob applied two of his hackle stackers to each of the for and aft sections of the peacock herl. Similar to the Sierra Bright Spot, a center section of flash material separates the two bodies of herl. Any of these cluster midges can also be used during Trico hatches, not just midges. It should be a staple in your flybox.
Variations
Quigley’s Cluster Midge
| Hook | Firehole 718, #18-20 |
| Thread | Veevus 12/0 Gray |
| Body | Peacock Herl |
| Mid-Body and Butt | Pearlescent tinsel, Medium |
| Tail | White Spade Hackles |
| Wing | Floating Poly Yarn, White |
| Hackle | Dun Hackle |
| Post | 6X Tippet |
Harrop’s Cluster Midge
| Hook | TMC 900BL #16-20 |
| Thread | Uni-thread Black 8/0 |
| Body | Peacock Herl |
| Ribbing | Small Gold Wire |
| Tail | Med. Dun Spade Hackles |
| Wing | White CDC |
| Hackle | Grizzly Hackle |