1) Prepare the foam and rubber leg pieces.The overbody foam should be equal to or slightly wider than the hook gap. The underbody layer of foam should be cut slightly narrower than the hook gap. |
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2) Lay a thread foundation from behind the eye of the hook to the start of the bend. |
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3) With the overbody foam, trim a point on the end of the foam and attach the foam point just in front of the bend. |
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4) Dub the thread with Peacock Ice dubbing and lock in the dubbing to the hook shank with a wrap. |
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5) Wrap the dubbing forward to just behind the eye. Keep one eyelength behind the eye free of dubbing. |
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6) Make a point on the underbody foam and attach the foam point just in front of the dubbing and secure with thread wraps. |
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7) Create three foam segments with thread wraps going back to the bend of the hook. The first segment should be larger than the last segment for a tapered appearance of the underbody. |
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8) Dub the thread with ice dubbing. |
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9) Wrap the dubbing between the segments. |
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10) Clip off the tag end of the underbody foam. |
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11) Bring the overbody foam over the segmented underbody and secure with a couple of thread wraps behind the eye. |
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12) Place a piece of the red rubberleg within the crevice of the foam and bring the tag end of the overbody back over the red piece, trapping the red rubberleg within the foam. This creates a head. |
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13) Secure the overbody foam with a couple of thread wraps. |
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14) Trim the red rubberleg flush to the foam. |
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15) Attach a set of black rubberlegs to each side of the shank for legs. The thread wraps will be placed in the same location as when you formed the head. |
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16) Secure a piece of Cerise McFlylon for an indicator behind the tag end of the overbody. |
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17) Dub the thread once more with the Peacock Ice dubbing and wrap the dubbing once or twice between the head and the tag end of the overbody hiding the thread when you attached the legs. |
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18) Whip Finish with a couple of wraps. |
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19) Trim off the tag end of the thread. |
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