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Jig Sculpin
Jig Sculpin, Tan
Tying Instructions
1.Place the bead onto the hook sliding the bead up to the eye of the hook.
2. Attach a section of leadfree wire behind the bead. This will fill the cavity and apply more weight behind the eye of the hook.
3. Wrap the lead 5-6 times and push the lead wraps into the bead cavity.
4. Attach the thread onto the hook shank and wrap the thread over the lead to firmly secure. Wrap the thread back to the bend of the hook.
5. Clip a section of Marabou fibers. Select Marabou that has a full webbiness to the tip of the fiber. Measure the fibers to be about 1-1/2 the length of the hook shank.
6. Place the Marabou fibers at the bend of the hook so that the length is about 1-1/2 the shank length. Apply a couple of tight thread wraps keeping the material on the top of the hook shank.
7.Select a second section of Marabou with a complentary color to provide a mottled appearance. Place the marabou directly above the first section of Marabou.
8. Firmly secure the marabou to the bend of the hook and secure the tag end of the material behind the bead. Trim off the excess and secure.
9. Create a dubbing loop with the thread at the base of the tail. Use a dubbing loop spinner to keep the loop open.
10. Place dubbing material within the loop. I am using Arizona Simi Seal Gray Olive. Spread the material equally through the loop and close the loop with the tool. Spin the tool to lock in the fibers.
11. Use a dubbing brush to pull the fibers from the thread core and give the tool some additional spins.
12. Attach the dubbing brush to a hackle plier and start to wraps the brush around the hook shank from the base of the tail to the bead.
13. Direct the brush fibers towards the rear of the pattern as you wrap the brush forward.
14. Continue to wrap the dubbing brush up to the base of the bead.
15. Clip a section of Ostrich Herl tips for the fins of the pattern.
16. Attach the tips behind the bead to one side of the hook shank. Adjust the length of the tips and secure with addtional thread wraps.
17. Next, attach a second set of tip fibers to the opposing side of the hook shank. Adjust for length and apply some tight wraps behind the bead.
18. Apply a few more wraps behind the bead..
19. To hide the thread wraps behind the bead, apply some ice dubbing to the thread and create a small collar.
20. Apply a whip finish and trim off the tag end of the thread.
21. Brush out the body fibers to flow into the tail.
22. Finished Jig Sculpin.
| Materials
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|
|---|---|
| Hook | Fire 570, #8 |
| Thread | Uni 6/0, Olive Dun |
| Head | 3/16 Plummeting Tungsten, Mottled Olive |
| Body | Arizona Simi Seal, Gray Olive |
| Fins | Ostrich Herl, Olive |
| Collar | Ice Dubbing, Peacock |
| Tail | Marabou, Brown Olive and Marabou, Tan |
Jig Sculpin
The Jig Sculpin is an extension of Euro Style nymphing being applied to streamer fishing. The jig streamer is usually applied to a typical Euro Nymphing rig as a point fly and is jigged as the pattern bounces along a downstream drift. At the end of the drift, the pattern can be retrieved with a slow strip and jigging motion. The pattern is intended to represent a sculpin that are bottom dwelling baitfish. They are common in Spring Creeks but are also found in freestone streams, tailwaters, and lakes.
The jig style hook will ride with the hook upright due to the heavy lead wire and tungsten bead at the hook eye. The heavy jig hook will plummet to the bottom quickly and the jigging will give the pattern the appearance of swimming.
Variations
Jig Sculpin, Olive
| Hook | Fire 551, #10 |
| Thread | Uni 6/0, Camel |
| Head | 3/16 Copper Tungsten |
| Body | Arizona Simi Seal, Bronze Peacock |
| Collar | Ice Dubbing, Pearl |
| Fins | Ostrich Herl, Tan |
| Tail | Marabou, Ginger and Marabou, Tan |