Bill’s Stick Caddis

Bill’s Stick Caddis

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Tying Instructions

1. Slide the appropriately sized bead over the hook. Wrap .020″ lead-free wire around the shank and push the wire into the bead hole to fill the void. Use a larger thickness of wire if the bead cavity is larger. The wire should have between 12 to 20 wraps depending upon weight desired.

2. Secure the lead-free wire with thread wraps and wrap the thread back to the bend of the hook for the tail tie-in position. An application of cement over the thread wraps securing the wire will help anchor the wire to the shank.

3. Attach a small amount of marabou for a tail.

4. Secure the butt ends along the shank to just behind the wire wraps.

5. Create a dubbing loop that is 3-5 inches in length. This is done by drawing the thread below the shank for a loop and securing the loop with interlocking thread wraps around the shank. A tool, such as Cal Bird dubbing tool, will hold the loop strands apart. Bring the bobbin thread to the one third position on the shank as this is where the dubbed loop will be wrapped.

6. Prepare a blend of Copper Lite Brite, Orange Antron and Dark Olive Angora Goat dubbing. I use a coffee blender to aid in the mix.

7. Apply the mixed dubbing to the loop. You can use the dubbing tool to twist the material between the strands and you can also arrange the material on the loop so that more of the material will be on the furthest portion of the loop to give a taper effect upon wrapping. Twist the loop to achieve a tight rope. Once twisted, remove the dubbing tool and secure the ends with a hackle plier Wrap the roped dubbing forward about 1 third the shank length, then secure with a couple of thread wraps. Bring the hackle plier over the rear of the fly to keep the dubbing mixture out of the way as you put the “sticks” on.

8.The “sticks” are Pheasant Tail fibers. Attach two pair of fibers by folding them around the thread and anchoring each pair to the sides of the shank. Use thread wraps around the base of the fibers to sweep the fibers back over the shank. Now, wrap another 1 third of the shank with the dubbed rope blend. Again secure with some thread wraps and bring the remaining rope to the rear with the hackle pliers still attached. Secure another two pairs of folded Pheasant Tail fibers for “sticks”. Again, secure these fibers with some thread wraps that will sweep the fibers backwards. Bring the remaining dubbed rope forward , leaving some space behind the bead. Secure with thread wraps and trim off the excess.

9. Apply a pale yellow collar that is about 1/8 inch thick. This represents the actual body of the larvae.

10. Prepare a Black Hen Hackle for the nymph legs. Remove the lower webby fibers and attach the hackle by the tip.

11. Wrap the hackle about 2-3 turns and secure with thread wraps. Trim the tag end of the hen hackle.

12. Apply some black dubbing just behind the bead. Put on a whip finish. Pick out the pale yellow collar material to give a fuzzy appearance and instill more life to the fly.

Materials to Order Material, click the link
Hook	TMC 200R #6-10
Thread	Danville Brown 6/0
Head	Black Tungsten Bead
Weight	0.020 Leadfree wire
Case	Blend of Olive Angora Goat , Orange Gold Antron , and Copper Lite Brite
Sticks	Pheasant Tail fibers
Body	Pale Yellow Haretron
Tail	Brown Marabou
Collar	Black Haretron
Legs	Black Hen Cape Hackle

Bill Carnazzo

Bill’s Stick Caddis

Bill’s Stick Caddis is a cased-caddis larvae pattern designed by the late Bill Carnazzo, a guide of westside sierran streams. The pattern is designed for the October Caddis larvae which inhabit most of the West Slope rivers and streams. He developed this pattern while fishing on the North Fork Yuba. Many trout key on the October Caddis hatch in late September and October but the larvae can be fished at any time during the season.

Simplicity

A number of aspects to this fly make it a good one. It is the simplicity of the fly itself. The fly consists of relatively few materials which are tied in a progressive manner from tail to head. These materials are selected to mimic the actual larvae and tied with a degree of fuzziness to deliver movement and life to the fly. The pale yellow collar is of particular importance since it creates a trigger response to the fly as the trout focus on what appears to be the caddis larvae body.

Weighted to get down

The fly is also weighted by both the bead and the lead-free wire wraps to ensure that the fly remains close to the river bottom. Select the size of bead and wire to fit the hook. For instance, on a size 6 hook, 0.30″ lead-free wire will work well in filling the space behind a 3/32″ bead but this may be too large for a size 10 hook.

The Case

The October Caddis larvae will often get dislodged from the bottom material in which the case is attached to. As the larvae case tumbles through the stream bed, the larvae will extend it’s body and legs reaching out for a new hold. Trout will notice this tumbling case and make a striking reponse, particularly when it sees the body and legs extending outwards.

The case is made up of sand grit, twigs, and pebbles. Bill suggests a blend of Dark Brown dubbing with Orange Antron, and Copper Lite Brite. He often prefers to use Paxton’s Dark Brown Nymph Dubbing. He utilizes Pheasant Tail fibers to produce the effect of small twigs extending from the case.

Seasonal Change in Color

As the season comes closer to October, Bill changes the body color from Pale Yellow to Pale Orange.He calls this the “Fall Phase Stick Caddis”. He also uses a “Gray” version to adjust the pattern to the material available within the stream. On the “Gray” version, Bill trims the Pheasant Tail fibers closer to the body to resemble small brown pebbles and adjusts the dubbing colors to a Greyish blend. This coloration works better on streams such as the Truckee, where vegetation is minimal.

Legs or No Legs

The legs are optional. When Andy Burk featured this pattern in Aug 2006 California Fly Fisher, he tied the legs in a soft hackle technique with a collar wrap of 3 turns. Bill followed up with an article in the October 2009 issue, indicating that this step was optional and, if used, could be tied nymph style. The other variations you will encounter with this pattern is the choice of hook styles. Earlier versions included curved nymph hooks such as TMC 200R and Daiichi 1260, later TMC 300 was recommended.

You may also see the Paxton’s Buggy Nymph dubbing cited as the choice material. However, in 2002, Tim Paxton sold his line of material and it is no longer distributed. Umpqua markets a very similar material.

Short Line Nymphing Technique

This pattern must be bounced on the bottom with a short line nymphing technique. You can use an indicator or without, keeping a close eye on the line for strikes. You will not feel the strike but must visualize it in order to successfully hook up. This technique works well within pocket water.

Fall Phase Stick Caddis

Hook	Daiichi 1260 #6-10
Thread	Danville Brown 6/0
Head	Root Beer or Orange colored Glass Bead
Weight	0.020 Leadfree wire
Case	Blend of Chocolate Mottled Nymph , Ice Dub UV Pearl , and Gold Lite Brite
Sticks	Pheasant Tail fibers
Body	Burnt Orange Haretron
Tail	Brown Marabou
Collar	Black Haretron
Legs(Optional)	Black Hen Cape Hackle

Gray Stick Caddis

Hook	TMC 300 #6-10
Thread	Danville Gray 6/0
Head	Black Tungsten Bead
Weight	0.020 Leadfree wire
Case	Blend of Hares Ear Mottled Nymph , Ice Dub UV Pearl , and Copper or Bronze Lite Brite
Sticks	Pheasant Tail fibers
Body	Light Cahill Haretron
Tail	Brown Marabou
Collar	Black Haretron
Legs(Optional)	Black Hen Cape Hackle