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Sexstone Nymph
Sexstone Nymph
Tying Instructions
1.Put the bead on first. Fill the void of the bead with leadfree wire wrapping to the midpoint of the shank..
2. Attach the thread and wrap the thread over the leadwraps, securing with a brushing of Zap-a-Gap. Wrap the thread down to the tail tie-in position at the bend of the hook.
3. Create a small dubbed ball to keep the biot tails angled.
4. Secure two goose biots with the concave sides facing. The dubbed ball will angle the two biots.
5. Remove the fibers from the base of 3-4 strands of large Peacock herl to secure the herl quill tightly to the shank.
6. Wrap the thread forward and place two Goose biots behind the bead along the side of the shank for two antennae.
7. Position the first legs at the 2/3 mark of the shank from the tail. Secure the leg strand with X wraps and a couple of wraps on the leading edge of the strand to angle the strand back at a 45 degree bend.
8. Attach the second leg strand at the midpoint of the shank. Secure in the same method as the first.
9. Bring the thread in front of the first leg strand and leave it there. At the tail tie-in area, twist the herl strands into a loose rope and wind the rope forward to the leg strands, between the leg strands, and a couple of wraps in front of the forward leg strand. Secure with a thread wrap.
10. Cut a slip of wing material from the medallion sheeting. The wing should have a notch cut out at the base and a tapered shape. You will need two of these. Attach the first wingcase in front of the legs where your last herl wraps were secured. The end of the wingcase should be about halfway between the tail tie in and the first set of legs.
11. Wrap the tag ends of the herl rope forward to the base of the biot antennae. These wraps hide the secured area of the first wingcase.
12. Position your second wingcase so that the end is just at the midpoint of the shank. Secure the wingcase just behind the antennae with some thread wraps. Pull the tag end of the wingcase over the wraps and apply a couple more thread wraps to lock the material in. Trim off the remaining wingcase material.
13. Attach a single herl at the base of the shank behind the bead. Wrap the herl as a collar hiding the securing thread wraps. Secure the herl with a thread wrap and whip finish between the collar and the antennae.
14. Trim the legs to suit. The finished Sexstone Nymph.
| Materials
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|
|---|---|
| Hook | TMC 200R #6-10 |
| Thread | Danville Rusty Brown 6/0 |
| Head | Gold Tungsten Bead |
| Weight | 0.020 Leadfree wire |
| Butt | Olive Superfine dubbing |
| Body | Peacock Herl |
| Tail and Antennae | Golden Stone Goose Biots |
| Collar | Peacock Herl |
| Wingcase | Clear Dura Skin |
| Legs | Brown Rubberlegs |
| Ribbing | Small Copper Wire |
Sexstone Nymph
Mike Sexton is a guide out of the Reno Fly Shop. He came up with this pattern when he was a member of the US Fly Fishing team. Through international competition, Mike became familiar with Czech Nymphing and adapted this variation of the Twenty Incher for Czech Nymphing purposes. The Peacock Herl is chenille with three strands and wrapped throughout the entire body, I use a single strand of herl for the collar behind the bead. You could use a dubbed underbody if you preferred to build the body up.
Dura Skin is used for the wingcase (Mike originally used the leather back from his lounger) and the legs are rubberlegs, rather than partridge, providing plenty of durability and action within fast moving water. There are a number of synthetic peacock chenille is available that can provide additional durability. However, none of these synthetics can provide the iridescence and fine hair-like qualities of the peacock herl. The pattern is heavily weighted with the tungsten bead and the leadfree wire wraps. Use this pattern in combination with another medium weighted nymph within riffle drop-offs and pocket water. This pattern is considered a heavy nymph so is often the fly that is bouncing the bottom with a multiple fly rig.