Beldar Rubberleg Bugger

Beldar Rubberleg Bugger, Olive

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Tying Instructions

1. Slip the Medium Gold Conehead onto the hook and bring up to the eye. Secure the hook to vise.

2. Wrap 10-15 wraps of 0.025″ lead-free wire around the shank and push the wraps up into the conehead.

3. Attach the thread behind the wire wraps and secure the wraps.

4. Wrap the thread back to the bend of the hook for a thread fouindation. The bend of the hook is where the tail material will be tied in.

5. The Beldar has a heavy tail which may mean two clumps of marabou plume to get the amount needed. The tail should measure for the eye to the bend of the hook in length. The barbs are from the top of the plume. They have little fluff and are fairly even. My second clump of barbs will be from the side of the plume so that I can bring more fluff to the tail.

6. A second clump is tied into the bend of the hook. Note that these barbs have more fluff than the first clump and are a little uneven. These barbs were cut from the side of the plume.

7. Secure the butt ends fo the marabou to the shank with thread wraps, trimming off the tag ends just behind the wire wraps. Note that the bulk of the marabou butt ends anchored onto the shank gives the shank about the same diameter of as the wire wraps producing an even body shank from the tail to the conehead..

8. Attach a couple strands of Krystalflash to each side of the shank with the strands extending the full length of the tail.

9. Next, attach the copper wire ribbing butting the end into the conehead and securing with thread wraps along the side of the shank. Secure up to the base of the tail.

10. Attach a piece of Crystal chenille to the base of the tail. Clean some of the crystal material away from the thread core of the chenille so that the thread core of the chenille is what you secure with thread wraps.

11. Attach a first set of rubberlegs to the 1/3 position of the hook shank. I prefer to keep the pair unseparated until after the body material is wrapped. I lay one wrap of thread just behind the bend of the material. With one wrap, you can adjust each side of the leg to a position below the shank and then secure that position with additional thread wraps.

12. A second set of rubberlegs are placed at the 2/3 position of the shank behind the conehead. Leave an adequate amount of space behind the conehead for anchoring the hackles and tieng off the body material. Note, one wrap of thread around the bend of the rubberlegs, then adjust position and secure with additional wraps.

13. The second set of rubberlegs are secure and the thread is wrapped up to the conehead.

14. Wrap the Crystal Chenille forward to just behind the first set of legs. Do not cross over the legs with the chenille with the next wrap. Go in front of the rubberlegs from below the shank and this will keep the position of the rubberlegs true.

15. Continue to wrap the Crystal Chenille forward coming to the second set of legs.

16. Wrap the Crystal Chenille below the second set of legs and bring the material up in front of the set. Continue to wrap to the conehead and secure with thread wraps. Trim off the tag ends of the chenille.

17. Prepare a pair of Guinea Hen Feathers. They need to be long enough to wrap to the base of the tail. Remove the right side of the fibers from the quill. This will give you a palmer hackle where the fibers will be placed cleanly without getting crushed. Also, remove the fibers from the base of the hackle in order to secure the hackle to the shank with thread wraps.

18. Secure the hackle pair just behind the conehead.

19. Using a rubber gripped Rotating Hackle Plier, wrap the hackles together around the shank as many times as the hackle length will allow to finish near the tail. Take care not to cross the rubberlegs.

20. Secure the Hackle tips to the shank with the copper ribbing. Wrap the ribbing in front of the hackle plier to catch the tips and continue to wrap the copper ribbing forward with 6-7 wraps up to the conehead. Again, take care not to cross the rubberlegs.

21. Secure the copper ribbing behind the conehead with thread wraps and apply a whip finish.

22. Separate the rubberlegs and brush the hackles back toward the tail.

23. The finished Beldar Rubberleg Bugger, Olive . If you want more hackle fibers around the conehead, add another palmered hackle at the base of the conehead and whip finish. It will be a nice filled collar.

Materials to Order Material, click the link
Hook	TMC 5263 #4-8
Thread	Danville Olive 3/0
Head	Medium Gold Conehead
Weight	10-15 wraps of 0.025 lead-free wire
Body	Krystal Chenille, Std, Olive
Ribbing	Medium Copper Wire
Legs	Medium Round Rubberlegs, Chartreuse
Tail	Dark Olive Marabou with 4 strands of Strung Guinea Hackle, Natural and Yellow

Tim Heng

Beldar Rubberleg Bugger

The Beldar Rubberleg Bugger is a twist on a traditional woolly bugger. With the availability of coneheads, Solitude Fly Company came up with their version of a conehead Bugger, aptly named Beldar, in recognition of a popular Saturday Night Live skit that featured their own “Coneheads”. Fly Fishermen having a Gierachian humor streak quickly bought into the novel idea of replacing a bead with a cone. Solitude continued to morph the Beldar with rubberlegs, duo-tone marabou tails, a Crystal Chenille body, and dyed spotted Guinea Feathers.

Preferred Streamer

Despite it’s gaudy appearance, the Beldar Rubberleg Bugger has found good success within our Western waters. Many Guide reports recommend the Beldar as a preferred streamer pattern. The rubberlegs provide plenty of action and the dyed Guinea Feathers give a mottled appearance to the body that has been a proven attractor element. The Beldar has morphed into a bugger pattern that is much more than a conehead transplant.

The Autumn Splendor version is based upon the pattern developed by fly fishing guide Tim Heng of Taylor Creek Fly Shop. He came up with this pattern in the 1990’s while on the Roaring Fork. The colorations are a good attraction in the Fall and Early Spring. It can represent either minnows or crawfish and is also a good pattern for Trout or Bass.

Variations

Beldar Rubberleg Bugger, Holloween

Hook	TMC 5263 #4-8
Thread	Danville Cream 3/0
Head	Medium Gold Conehead
Weight	10-15 wraps of 0.025 lead-free wire
Body	Krystal Chenille, Std, Brown
Ribbing	Medium Copper Wire
Legs	Medium Round Rubberlegs, White
Tail	Yellow and Hot Orange Marabou with 4 strands of Strung Guinea Hackle, Orange and Yellow

Beldar Rubberleg Bugger, Black/Red

Hook	TMC 5263 #4-8
Thread	Danville Black 3/0
Head	Medium Gold Conehead
Weight	10-15 wraps of 0.025 lead-free wire
Body	Krystal Chenille, Std, Black
Ribbing	Medium Copper Wire
Legs	Medium Round Rubberlegs, Black
Tail	Red and Black Marabou with 4 strands of Strung Guinea Hackle, Natural and Red

Beldar Rubberleg, Black

Hook	TMC 5263 #4-8
Thread	Danville Charcoal 3/0
Head	Medium Gold Conehead
Weight	10-15 wraps of 0.025 lead-free wire
Body	Krystal Chenille, Std, Black
Ribbing	Medium Copper Wire
Legs	Medium Round Rubberlegs, Black
Tail	Black and Claret Marabou with 4 strands of Strung Guinea Hackle, Natural and Red

Beldar Rubberleg, Autumn Splendor

Hook	TMC 5263 #4-8
Thread	Danville Dark Brown 6/0
Head	Medium Gold Conehead
Weight	10-15 wraps of 0.025 lead-free wire
Body	Medium Brown Chenille
Ribbing	Medium Copper Wire
Legs	Medium Round Rubberlegs, Chartreuse
Tail	Brown Marabou and Crawdad Orange Marabou with 4 strands of Grizzly dyed Orange and Grizzly dyed Yellow Saddle Hackle

Beldar Rubberleg, Skunk

Hook	TMC 5263 #4-8
Thread	Danville Black 3/0
Head	Medium Gold Conehead
Weight	10-15 wraps of 0.025 lead-free wire
Body	Krystal Chenille, Std, Black
Ribbing	Medium Copper Wire
Legs	Medium Round Rubberlegs, Black
Tail	Black and White Marabou with 4 strands of 2 Strung Guinea Hackle, Natural palmered around body. 2 Strung Guinea Hackle, Natural collared around base of conehead